If it hardens totally, sand it smooth. Sand all surface areas with the grain using 100-grit paper. To make sure no bits of dust mar the finish, vacuum the cabinets inside and out, then rub them down with a tack cloth to catch any debris that the vacuum misses. Dee says, "Hand sanding is the finest method on oak because you can push the paper into the open grain, which a power sander or sanding block will miss. Cabinet Painters 28214." When using a tack cloth, unfold each brand-new cloth fully, down to one layer, then fold it to get the greatest dust collection surface.
However they just sink into open-grained woods such as oak, ash, mahogany, or hickory. Brushing putty, the pudding-thick, oil-based finish Dee utilized on these oak cabinets, fills the grain as it primes the wood. A number of caveats: It should be used with a good-quality nylon-polyester brush, which you'll have to discard after each coat.
Starting at the top of the cabinet, brush on the primer or brushing putty across the grain, then "tip off" pass the brush lightly over the wet surface in the instructions of the grain (Cabinet Painting 28211). Always tip off in a single stroke from one end to the other. Give it a day to dry.
Sand any profiled surface areas with a medium-grit sanding sponge. When you're done, everything should be glass-smooth. Follow the hidden structure of the cabinet or door with the brush. Where a rail (horizontal piece) butts into a stile (vertical piece), for circumstances, paint the rail first, overlapping somewhat onto the stile.
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Where a stile butts into a rail, paint the stile first. Squeeze a thin bead of latex caulk into any open seams. Pull the tip as you go, then smooth the caulk with a damp finger. Fill any little damages, scratches, or dings with vinyl spackle, smoothed flat with a putty knife.
Spot-prime the spackle, and any areas where the brushed-on primer is "burned through," with a spray can of fast-drying oil-based primer. Wait an hour, then sand the guide gently with 280-grit paper. Vacuum all surfaces, and clean with a tack cloth. The hole in a caulk tube's tip must be no bigger than the tip of a sharp pencil.
Work from leading to bottom, applying the paint throughout the grain, then tipping it off with the grain. For cabinet interiors, apply the paint with a smooth-surface mini roller, which leaves a small orange-peel texture. Sand all surface areas with 280-grit paper, then vacuum and clean with tack cloth. Cabinet Painters 28213. For the last coat, break out a new brush.
Brushes get dust, so constantly put paint into a different container to avoid contamination of the paint in the can. If any paint is left over, pour it back into the can only through a fine-mesh strainer. The method for prepping and painting doors, drawers, and racks is the very same as on the cabinets, other than that all the work is done on a table to lower the possibility of drips, runs, and droops. Cabinet Painters 28203.
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Follow the same prep sequence as for cabinetsclean with deglosser, fill the holes, sand, vac, and tackand the same priming sequence: in this case, two coats of brushing putty. Smooth the flat surface areas on the panel and the frame with a random-orbit sander. On bevels or profiles, apply effort and a medium-grit sanding sponge.
When priming or painting paneled doors, brush in the following series to get the best-looking surface area in the least quantity of time: begin with the location around the panel, then do the main field of the panel, then finish with the stiles and rails around the edges. As you go, wipe up any paint that ends up on surrounding dry surfaces. Cabinet Painting 28206.
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After vacuuming and adding all the surface areas, spray a fast-dry primer on any spots with spackle or bare wood where the sandpaper "burned through" the guide. Wait an hour prior to sanding - Cabinet Painting 28208. Remove all dustfirst with a vacuum, then with a tack clothand use the finish coat. Idea it off with the grain.
Vacuum and tack every piece, then brush on the final coat. To prevent drips on outside edges, pull the brush toward them. To avoid drips in corners, initially discharge the brush by removing the paint, then paint by pulling the brush away from the corner. If a drip laps onto a dry surface, wipe it up instantly.
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John Dee, a perfectionist, prefers to do one side at a time, keeping the faces flat so they don't get runs. However that's two days of drying time per doorone day per side. Here's his approach for painting both sides in a day. Twist 2 screw hooks into holes drilled in an unnoticeable door edge (the lower edge for bottom cabinets, the upper edge for top cabinets).